A 12.05 carat white pearl — 13.24 ratti — at Rs. 3,000, about Rs. 249 per carat.

White, with the figures behind it

Pearl colour is described loosely more often than almost any other gem — white, cream, rosé and silver all get used for the same object depending on who is selling. Measured from its photograph, this pearl reads 209 out of 255 for brightness at 4% saturation, with the red, green and blue channels within a few points of one another. That is a genuine neutral white, not a cream or a rosé described generously.

Body colour and overtone

Two things are judged separately in pearl, and it is worth knowing the difference. Body colour is the base — white, cream, golden, grey, black. Overtone is the faint secondary sheen floating over it, usually rose, silver or green, caused by light interfering within the nacre layers rather than by pigment.

A white pearl with a rose overtone has traditionally been the most sought-after combination in the subcontinent and in the West alike. A white pearl with no overtone at all reads cleaner and more modern. This one is neutral enough that it will take whichever metal you set it against rather than fighting it.

How to judge nacre quality yourself

Look at the highlight. On good nacre the reflected light is tight and sharply bounded, with a definite edge where it stops. On thin or poor nacre it is diffuse and blurs away gradually. Then roll the pearl slowly: the glow should appear to come from beneath the surface rather than sitting on it.

Care

Pearl is 2.5 to 4.5 on the Mohs scale and nacre dissolves in acid, so perfume, hairspray and sweat are its enemies. Last on, first off. Soft damp cloth after wearing. Never an ultrasonic cleaner, never steam, never a dip.

Treatment has not been tested on this pearl, which we record rather than describing it as untreated. No documented origin is held for it. Dimensions are not recorded yet; ask and we will measure.

This particular stone

This listing is one natural pearl, known in Urdu as Moti, with a weight of 12.05 Carat. Its price is Rs. 3,000 — roughly Rs. 249 for each carat. Treatment: treatment not tested. Quote reference GS-000333 when you message us about it. The photographs show this exact stone, so what arrives at your door is the piece you chose on screen.

Above twelve carats you are into collector territory. Pieces this heavy are usually set as pendants or kept loose, and they are prized for the size of rough they came from. If you do set it, choose a bezel or a heavy claw to protect the edges.

On the Mohs scale pearl rates 2.5 to 4.5. That makes it soft for a gemstone, better suited to pendants, earrings and rings for special occasions than to a daily ring. Keep it away from perfume, cleaning products, steam and ultrasonic cleaners, and polish it with a dry, soft cloth after wear.

Whoever you buy pearl from, make sure of three things: the stone is natural rather than lab-grown, glass or glass-filled; any treatment is stated in writing; and the weight quoted is the weight of the finished stone. We check every pearl for those three points before it is listed, a certificate is available on request, and because you pay on delivery you can look at the stone — or have it tested — before any money changes hands.

We sell natural stones only and inspect each one before it is listed. Treatment for this stone: Treatment not tested. Certificate available on request. As general background (not a statement about this stone): Pearls (moti) are commonly bleached and polished; dyed colours are disclosed. Ask us on WhatsApp and we will tell you what we know about this exact stone; independent lab testing is available on request.

A certificate of authenticity is available on request for this stone, and independent laboratory testing can be arranged. Because you pay on delivery, you can also take the stone to a lab of your choice within the 7-day return window. Read more on our authenticity page.